Wednesday, 5 April 2017

Amore, Whitefield

A review of my first visit to Amore back in January, shortly after opening, when I sampled the a la carte Italian menu...

Amore is the latest new addition to Whitefield’s ever-expanding restaurant scene. A sister establishment to the recent Ivory Bar & Grill, Amore is an Italian ‘cuccina and bar’. When it was getting ready for its grand opening, I wondered if ‘cuccina’ meant it was going to something slightly different, tapas perhaps, but, as it turns out, the literal English translation of the word is ‘kitchen’.

Amore has replaced The Buddha Lounge; to some, it seems like a step backwards to move from serving modern Thai cuisine to plain old Italian, which is much more readily available in high street chains. Having regularly eaten there during its former days, when I walked into Amore on Wednesday evening, it was totally unrecognisable and I found it hard to believe I was standing in what was once The Buddha Lounge. The interior has been completely transformed into a modern, bistro-type restaurant, with white bare brick walls and comfortable, sofa-style seating. I was very impressed with the design and layout of the interior. The shape of the building has been manipulated to its full potential, with the bar in the middle and all the tables around the edges. It feels very light and airy inside, which is a welcome change from dark ‘mood lighting’. 

I immediately noticed that the menu is somewhat limited. There are only five pasta dishes and five pizzas to choose from. For somebody as indecisive as me, it makes the selection process a little easier. I regularly skim through the whole menu, looking at three or four different main courses which I’d like to try, becoming increasingly stressed as my list of possibilities expands. That said, I would have expected a wider range of options, given that pasta and pizza are, for most, the go-to in an Italian.

We didn’t bother with starters, instead kicking off with garlic breads. It was like a pitta bread rather than the traditional round pizza-based style; tasty enough but dry and not nearly big enough if you were sharing it between three or four of you. We got both plain and cheese bread between three of us, and there was just about enough.

Garlic breads, with and without cheese

For main course, I had Tagliatelle Funghi, one of my favourite pasta dishes. Sadly, it was a case of eating with your eyes, as it looked much nicer than it tasted. It was loaded with mushrooms and doused in olive oil, so it wasn’t as though the dish was poor quality, it just wasn’t quite what I was expecting. For me, it could have done with being creamier, as it was quite bland. Even the mushrooms didn’t have a lot of flavour.

Tagliatelle Funghi: mushroom, porcini, grana ponado

One of my dining companions had a margarita pizza with extra red onions. I’m not a pizza lover and would never think to order one in a restaurant, but this one looked very appealing and was a generous size.

Pizza Margarita with red onions
Oddly, there are more options to start than there are for pizza and pasta. I already have my eye on a couple of starters I’d like to sample if I return to Amore in the future. There are also salads and a la carte dishes, including steaks, chicken, sea bass and veal, so although it’s slightly smaller, it still offers everything you would expect of an Italian menu. I’m not quite sure where you would find use for the majority of the side dishes on offer, which include chilli-infused broccoli, chips covered in Parmesan cheese and creamy mashed potatoes. The fact that this kind of thing is available suggests to me that the meat-based dishes are not served with vegetables, which I would expect if I was ordering from an a la carte menu. 

For dessert, it was a limoncello meringue pie, which was delicious. The pastry was crisp, the meringue soft and fluffy on the top and gooey on the inside, oozing out along with the limoncello liqueur, making for a zingy flavour. A small scoop of ice cream is perhaps needed to soften the sharp, bitter flavour.

Crostata di Limoncello

We arrived at seven o’clock and it was gone nine by the time I was tucking into my dessert; the service is something that needs to be improved upon. I’ll put it down to teething problems. Amore only opened during the week leading up to Christmas, so it’s probably still finding its feet, but more staff are evidently needed. There was just two visible front-of-house staff for most of the time we were there, who were having to wait on tables and greet people as they arrived. It’s little wonder the service was slow and our meals were lukewarm by the time they arrived.

As is often the case with restaurants these days, Amore is open all day from 12 noon, and they offer a fixed price lunch menu, allowing you to enjoy two courses for £13.95 or three for £17.95. There’s a good selection of starters, main courses and desserts, all of which are available on the main menu, making it very much worthwhile. 

Monday, 27 March 2017

Porada

Bury New Road, Whitefield


Porada is my favourite local Italian restaurant. Since it opened, in the building of the old Barclays bank, in December 2013, I’ve been a regular visitor. It’s modern, stylish, chic and sophisticated and, like many of Whitefield’s establishments, brings a city centre vibe to the suburbs.

I met up with some school friends at this local delight on Sunday evening, and I was taken aback when I discovered how busy it was. Granted, it’s always been popular, and there are always tables occupied no matter what time of the day or week you stroll past, but I’ve never seen it so positively heaving on a Sunday night. Unfortunately, this meant we had to wait twenty five minutes for a table that I’d reserved for 7.00 pm. I appreciate that, as a paying customer, you should never be rushed out once you’ve finished your meal, but I begrudge having to stand at the bar for so long when we’ve made a reservation. 

Once we sat down, the service didn’t look promising. We gazed over the menus for almost half an hour, after which I still had to ask twice if we could order. It doesn’t exactly set you up for a relaxing evening, but granted, once we ordered, our food arrived swiftly and there was nothing else we could possibly have complained about.

To start, I had ‘Gamberoni Tempura’. It’s a starter I’ve had several times before when dining at Porada, and it’s one of my absolute favourites. Never mind king prawns, I think ‘emperor’ would be a better description; they really are enormous. Three mammoth sized, juicy prawns were lightly coated in perfectly crispy batter and served on a charcuterie board with bistro salad and a sweet chilli sauce for dipping. As I removed the tail, I was scraping any excess scraps of batter from around them, not wanting the first course to end as I savoured every mouthful. 

Gamberoni Tempura

Sunday was one of those days when I knew exactly what I wanted. I try to avoid eating the same dishes over and over again when I go out, but on this occasion I was having exactly what I fancied.  So I opted for one of my favourite pasta dishes, ‘Fusilli Pesto E Pollo’, spiral pasta with chicken, pine kernals, sun-blushed tomatoes and chilli coated in basil pesto sauce and topped with shavings of parmesan cheese. The ingredients married together incredibly well, resulting in an exquisite pasta dish, rich in all my favourite flavours and textures. I’ve previously had the same dish cooked with red, tomato based pesto. The difference is astounding; it makes for a totally different meal, tasting more like it’s cooked in a bog-standard tomato sauce. I’m loath to criticise such a gorgeous dish, but they could be slightly more generous with their portion sizes. A few more mouthfuls would have left me feeling much more satisfied with my meal.

Fusilli Pesto E Pollo
As my friends were all indulging in dessert, I had to join them. As I’ve previously mentioned, I’m abstaining from chocolate and cakes during Lent, so I’m currently extremely limited when it comes to dessert choice. In this case, Creme Brûlée Flambé was my one and only option. Alright, confession time: I’d never before eaten a Creme Brûlée. I’m not entirely sure why. It’s probably because there is a gargantuan list of other desserts I’d rather eat than a glorified pot of hot custard.

At this point, I’ll hold my hands up and admit that my glorified custard was absolutely gorgeous. The rich, silky and comforting custard was warm and gooey in the middle, hidden under a crispy caramelised top. The ‘Flambé’ was produced from Grand Marnier liqueur, which was doused over the top of the brûlée and set alight, which took me by surprise and almost resulted in singed eyebrows, but was effective all the same. Meanwhile, I had to sit and watch my friend eat Forerro Rocher cheesecake, my mouth salivating and my eyes becoming moist at the sight. 

                               Creme Brûlee Flambé

Whilst the portions could do with upsizing, the quality of the food at Porada is of exceptional quality. The surroundings are stunning, and could rival those of an upmarket Italian in the centre of town. Despite an initially long and irritating wait for our table, once we ordered and noticed that I was visibly irked, they upped their game and the rest of the evening moved along swiftly. 

The full menu, including the Sunday Special, is available to view at:
http://www.porada.co.uk/

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 27 March 2017

"One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating." 
Luciano Pavarotti


Monday, 20 March 2017

Lunch at One Eighty Eight, Whitefield

Having previously fallen in love with my new local fine-dining restaurant, One 88 Kitchen & Bar, this weekend, I made a return visit, this time for lunch. Having perused the menu in its entirety during my first visit, I had already decided what I would eat if I was to ever return at lunchtime.

It’s a versatile place that works just as well for lunch with friends on a relaxing Sunday as it does for a slap up meal on a Friday night. The ground floor was packed, with every table occupied, with people enjoying everything from late breakfasts and brunches to roast dinners. The whole menu is available on a Sunday lunchtime, from the regular a la carte to the breakfast and brunch options, which are only available until midday during the week but extend to 2.00pm at the weekend.

Whilst my friends had poached eggs on toast from the brunch menu, I had a delicious fish goujon sandwich. Three generous goujons, lightly battered, were served between two door-stopper wedges of soft, fluffy, homemade bloomer loaf, with lettuce, tartar sauce and a sprinkle of cheese and onion pickle. The tartar sauce was chunky and packed with capers, laden thick on the top slice of bread, making for an incredibly tasty lunchtime bite. It was reminiscent of a fish finger sandwich, albeit a very posh one. What’s not to love about an upmarket version of one of the ultimate comfort foods?

Fish goujon sandwich served with hand cut chips and coleslaw
The sandwich was served with a bucket of perfectly cooked hand-cut chips and gorgeously-coloured ‘winter’ coleslaw, made with red cabbage. It makes a change to receive some proper chips, as opposed to the wafer thin ‘fries’ which are all batter and no potato and often fried to their death. I have to confirm that these were some of the finest British chips I have ever tasted. Doused in salt and lashings of vinegar, they were beautiful.

It was incredibly good value for money, with the filling sandwich meal costing me £7.50, especially in comparison to the much smaller poached eggs on toast, which was £5.50. The fact that there two large birthday parties in when we arrived didn’t hinder the service; the staff were attentive and we received our lunch within 15 minutes of ordering. 

Having dined at One Eighty Eight for both lunch and dinner, it seems the place can do no wrong. Chef David Gale has expertly managed to fill a gap in the market for good quality, locally sourced, traditional British food at a reasonable cost.

http://one88whitefield.co.uk/

Sunday, 19 March 2017

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 20 March 2017

"The secret of success in life is to eat what you like and let the food fight it out inside."
Mark Twain 



Monday, 13 March 2017

San Carlo Fumo, Manchester

1 St Peter's Square, Manchester


Fumo is one of my favourite restaurants in Manchester. Part of the renowned San Carlo group, it’s Italian tapas as its finest and, for a food lover, the perfect opportunity to sample a little bit of everything at the highest quality.

Located at the top of Oxford Road, just off St Peter’s Square, it’s a stone’s throw away from the The Midland Hotel, the Palace Theatre and a whole host of bars, pubs and clubs, making it a real hub of the city centre. I previously walked past Fumo on my daily commute into the city, and by lunchtime it was always heaving with businessmen and women enjoying executive lunches, which isn’t surprising, given the stunning interior and top class food. 

As soon as you arrive, the attentive front of house staff take your coats and show you to your table, immediately making you feel at home. It’s the little touches that immediately make Fumo stand head and shoulders above the rest.

The tables are a little too close together for my liking. We were initially seated on top of a couple who were already eating, in such close proximity that I didn’t even want to discuss the menu for fear of being overheard; we may as well have been sharing a table. It was only 5.30 pm and the restaurant wasn’t full, so I don’t understand why we had to sit next door to a table that was already occupied. Thankfully, this issue was quickly resolved when we were moved somewhere more spacious. It’s a shame, as the intimate feel of the restaurant is ruined by having too many tables crammed in. 

When ordering ‘cichetti’, the Italian translation for tapas, or more literally ‘small side dishes’, the general recommendation is three or four dishes per person. The two of us may have got a little bit carried away, which is incredibly easy to do as you’ve never been so spoil for choice. We ended up with eight dishes between us, but every one of them was a winner.

There’s a welcome twist to Fumo when it comes to the way in which the food is served. Rather than everything arriving together, your dishes are brought out in stages, a couple at a time, which means that you’re not pressurised to rush through anything in order to avoid the food going cold.

We started with mushroom bruschetta and two pasta dishes: spaghetti carbonara and mushroom pappardelle.  The crispy bruschetta was gorgeous, stacked high with mushrooms, truffles and pecorino cheese. It was a case of mushroom overload, with the pappardelle being stacked with oyster mushrooms, coated in truffle oil and topped with parmesan cheese, whilst the carbonara was creamy and delicious, made in the authentic Italian way with raw egg. It is, understandably, one of the most popular dishes, and this was quite possibly the best I’ve ever tasted. The pasta is so delicious that I could order three or four dishes and eat it exclusively.

Mushroom bruschetta

Mushroom pappardelle (left) and spaghetti carbonara (right)
Next, we had two fish dishes, a pizza and a side of sweet potatoes. I told you we went overboard. We had fillet of sea bass, served with rocket and drizzled with lemon juice and seared tuna steak nestled on a bed of mixed lentils and tomatoes. The sea bass melted away in your mouth, whilst the tuna arrived looking positively raw, but was mouth-wateringly succulent and juicy. The flavoursome lentils with their smooth texture and sweet tomato flavour beautifully contrasted the crisp, salty tuna. The pizza I could have lived without. The dough was exactly right, neither too stodgy, nor crispy, and it was topped with tomato, mozzarella, ham and mushrooms. It was tasty enough, but it didn’t set my mouth alight. The little extra of sweet potato, whilst not necessary, was delightful. The sweet potatoes were perfectly cooked and served with onions and crispy pancetta.

Clockwise from top left: Pan-seared tuna steak with mixed lentils, fillet of sea bass, ham and mushroom pizza, sweet potato with onions and pancetta.

Fumo is a culinary delight which allows you to dabble in all the delights of a fine Italian restaurant in one sitting. It’s expensive, with the fish dishes costing £8.95 each, so it’s not the place to eat if you’re on a budget. However, for a special occasion it’s more than worth it, with the quality of the food and the size of the dishes accurately reflecting the cost. Whereas the more traditional Spanish tapas is made up of nibbles and starter dishes, the dishes at Fumo are miniature meals, meaning the portions are significantly larger, so there’s plenty to go round.  

Unsurprisingly, I was too stuffed to even think about dessert, which was perhaps just as well given that we’re in the middle of Lent. I do know from previous experiences that the desserts as equally as stunning as the tapas, and I would, most certainly, recommend the sampler, which continues the mix-and-match mood with small bites of a selection of desserts from the menu. 

San Carlo Fumo is pure luxury, with an extensive menu full of taste sensations, each individual dish a sensation. You can eat as much or as little as you like, pasta, pizza, meat, fish, salads and antipasti. It’s earned its rightful place as one of my favourite restaurants in Manchester, and I’m genuinely excited each time I return. You feel like you’re in the middle of the city centre, with quality of the food and the ambience easily able to rival the likes of Rosso and the haunts of the affluent Spinningfields. I would urge you to treat yourself to a dining experience that will leave a lasting impression. 

Website: http://www.sancarlofumo.co.uk/fumo-manchester/