Wednesday, 5 April 2017

Amore, Whitefield

A review of my first visit to Amore back in January, shortly after opening, when I sampled the a la carte Italian menu...

Amore is the latest new addition to Whitefield’s ever-expanding restaurant scene. A sister establishment to the recent Ivory Bar & Grill, Amore is an Italian ‘cuccina and bar’. When it was getting ready for its grand opening, I wondered if ‘cuccina’ meant it was going to something slightly different, tapas perhaps, but, as it turns out, the literal English translation of the word is ‘kitchen’.

Amore has replaced The Buddha Lounge; to some, it seems like a step backwards to move from serving modern Thai cuisine to plain old Italian, which is much more readily available in high street chains. Having regularly eaten there during its former days, when I walked into Amore on Wednesday evening, it was totally unrecognisable and I found it hard to believe I was standing in what was once The Buddha Lounge. The interior has been completely transformed into a modern, bistro-type restaurant, with white bare brick walls and comfortable, sofa-style seating. I was very impressed with the design and layout of the interior. The shape of the building has been manipulated to its full potential, with the bar in the middle and all the tables around the edges. It feels very light and airy inside, which is a welcome change from dark ‘mood lighting’. 

I immediately noticed that the menu is somewhat limited. There are only five pasta dishes and five pizzas to choose from. For somebody as indecisive as me, it makes the selection process a little easier. I regularly skim through the whole menu, looking at three or four different main courses which I’d like to try, becoming increasingly stressed as my list of possibilities expands. That said, I would have expected a wider range of options, given that pasta and pizza are, for most, the go-to in an Italian.

We didn’t bother with starters, instead kicking off with garlic breads. It was like a pitta bread rather than the traditional round pizza-based style; tasty enough but dry and not nearly big enough if you were sharing it between three or four of you. We got both plain and cheese bread between three of us, and there was just about enough.

Garlic breads, with and without cheese

For main course, I had Tagliatelle Funghi, one of my favourite pasta dishes. Sadly, it was a case of eating with your eyes, as it looked much nicer than it tasted. It was loaded with mushrooms and doused in olive oil, so it wasn’t as though the dish was poor quality, it just wasn’t quite what I was expecting. For me, it could have done with being creamier, as it was quite bland. Even the mushrooms didn’t have a lot of flavour.

Tagliatelle Funghi: mushroom, porcini, grana ponado

One of my dining companions had a margarita pizza with extra red onions. I’m not a pizza lover and would never think to order one in a restaurant, but this one looked very appealing and was a generous size.

Pizza Margarita with red onions
Oddly, there are more options to start than there are for pizza and pasta. I already have my eye on a couple of starters I’d like to sample if I return to Amore in the future. There are also salads and a la carte dishes, including steaks, chicken, sea bass and veal, so although it’s slightly smaller, it still offers everything you would expect of an Italian menu. I’m not quite sure where you would find use for the majority of the side dishes on offer, which include chilli-infused broccoli, chips covered in Parmesan cheese and creamy mashed potatoes. The fact that this kind of thing is available suggests to me that the meat-based dishes are not served with vegetables, which I would expect if I was ordering from an a la carte menu. 

For dessert, it was a limoncello meringue pie, which was delicious. The pastry was crisp, the meringue soft and fluffy on the top and gooey on the inside, oozing out along with the limoncello liqueur, making for a zingy flavour. A small scoop of ice cream is perhaps needed to soften the sharp, bitter flavour.

Crostata di Limoncello

We arrived at seven o’clock and it was gone nine by the time I was tucking into my dessert; the service is something that needs to be improved upon. I’ll put it down to teething problems. Amore only opened during the week leading up to Christmas, so it’s probably still finding its feet, but more staff are evidently needed. There was just two visible front-of-house staff for most of the time we were there, who were having to wait on tables and greet people as they arrived. It’s little wonder the service was slow and our meals were lukewarm by the time they arrived.

As is often the case with restaurants these days, Amore is open all day from 12 noon, and they offer a fixed price lunch menu, allowing you to enjoy two courses for £13.95 or three for £17.95. There’s a good selection of starters, main courses and desserts, all of which are available on the main menu, making it very much worthwhile. 

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