Tuesday, 9 July 2019

24 Bar and Grill at Princess Street Hotel

Princess Street, Manchester 


24 Bar and Grill is a modern, stylish and sophisticated restaurant and cocktail bar beneath Princess Street Hotel. The restaurant belongs to the boutique hotel but is open to the public seven days a week and its central location and stunning interior makes it ideal for cocktails, pre-theatre dining or a leisurely lunch.

The emphasis is placed firmly on British cuisine, with many classic dishes being given a contemporary makeover.

I stumbled across the restaurant purely by chance, thanks to an offer on my ‘itison’ app that was too good to turn down. Two of us were able to enjoy two courses and a glass of house wine (or soft drink) for £22 – such staggeringly good value, it was almost too good to be true.

The choice of courses was down to you: either a starter and a main course or a main course and a dessert. For all three, you simply had to stump up an additional £4. How could you say no?

We visited 24 Bar and Grill on what was the hottest day of the year. The temperature outside was a sweltering 29°C, so the beautifully cool, air-conditioned interior was the perfect place to spend the afternoon. The restaurant was blissfully quiet, with only a couple of other tables also seemingly taking advantage of the bonkers deal and a group of ladies on a hen party having afternoon tea. The staff were friendly, welcoming and attentive, explaining to us exactly what we could have as part of our deal.

The décor is very plush, with marbled floors, swanky booths and mood lighting. Opposite the restaurant is a frosted glass-fronted bar with large, rectangular booth seating, ideal for cocktail parties.

The choice of dishes comes from a limited menu which changes seasonally. There are three options for each course; hardly overwhelming, but a decent choice all the same. For starters, I had a salad of slow cooked chicken with sweetcorn, radish, avocado and quinoa tossed in herb olive. It was a light, tasty and healthy salad, perfect for a hot summer’s day. The green, leafy salad was beautifully dressed and perfectly balanced in flavour, with lots of quinoa for texture. I’d never eaten quinoa before and, being honest, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. It didn’t seem to have much flavour but it added texture and depth to the salad bowl.

Salad of Slow Cooked Chicken
For main course, I had fillet of haddock with beetroot gnocchi, tomato and grilled courgette. The haddock fillet was beautifully cooked, falling apart between your knife and fork. It was nestled on top of a bed of bright red gnocchi. Gnocchi can often be chewy and slimy, but this was neither. On paper, it’s a combination that you wouldn’t expect to work, but actually the fish and gnocchi complemented each other very well.

Fillet of Haddock with Beetroot Gnocchi
The portions are small, but there are a range of side dishes which can be added for between £3.50 and £4.50, including chunky chips, sweet potato fries or baked potatoes. As we were going for three courses, we decided not to bother.

As part of the ‘itison’ deal, we could add a dessert onto our meal from the summer set menu for an additional £4 – how could we possibly say no? It makes a change to have three good desserts on a set menu; normally, you’re stuck with a choice of tiramisu or a selection of ice cream. There was sticky toffee pudding, vanilla panna cotta with biscoff or strawberry pavlova with white chocolate shavings. Out of curiosity, I couldn’t help but sneak a peak at the a la carte dessert menu. They have a fine selection of puddings encapsulating the best of British, and they’re all £6.

Sticky Toffee Pudding
The lure of one dessert in particular proved too hard to resist, so I had to step off the set menu and go for the raspberry cheesecake. Cheesecake is my all-time favourite dessert. I’ve eaten so many of them that I often find myself being a little picky. This was an exceptionally good cheesecake, made so by the thick, crunchy biscuit base. The cheesecake itself was creamy but well set and topped with pistachios for added crunch. It was served with a scoop of white chocolate ice cream. Raspberry and white chocolate is the ultimate summer combination; the two flavours are a match made in foodie heaven. I’m not a fan of normal chocolate ice cream, but this white chocolate version, with shavings of frozen white chocolate, was a real treat.

Raspberry Cheesecake
We enjoyed three faultless courses and a beverage £15 and £17 each, respectively, making it one of the best value-for-money meals I’ve ever had in the city centre. Top quality food, elegant surroundings and attentive staff made for a thoroughly splendid afternoon.

I look forward to returning to Princess Street Hotel for an afternoon tea later in the year.

The a la carte, seasonal menus and cocktail menus are all available to view online: http://www.24barandgrill.net/

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