Tuesday, 24 July 2018

The Anthologist

One St Peter's Square, Manchester


The Anthologist is a new restaurant by Drake & Morgan, the London group who recently brought a touch of the capital to Spinningfields when they opened The Refinery.

Situated in the middle of St Peter’s Square, opposite the central library, The Anthologist is a rustic, botanical themed restaurant and cocktail bar and is the perfect place for stylish all-day dining.


It delivers sumptuous cocktails and a fusion menu, taking inspiration from all corners of the globe and ‘pairing health with indulgence’. The Drake and Morgan group also pride themselves on providing a wealth of vegan and vegetarian options.

The impressive cocktail menu promises to take you on a journey through botanical mixology. All the beverages have been hand-crafted by Fabrizio Cioffi, alias The Gardner, who mixes together ingredients from the gardens around the world to create his fusion creations. They’re all rather creatively named and split up into four families.

‘The Essence of the Garden’ features all your classic cocktails which you’d find in any good mixing house; ‘The Enchanted Garden’ sees the owners add their own little twists to some old favourites, whilst ‘The Experimental Garden’ are brand new creations.

What really caught my eye was the ‘Absolute Proofs’: super-skinny cocktails with no alcohol, some of which contain less than 50 calories. I had the Apple Pie: a refreshing, long drink made with cloudy apple, black pepper, maple syrup and ginger. My friend chose the Ginger Mimosa: a mixture of orange juice and ginger ale with rosemary and fresh ginger. I couldn’t have drunk this one; it was too savoury and slightly heavy on the spicy ginger.



Food-wise, we dined off the brunch menu. Be careful of this, for it’s a little complicated. They have both a brunch menu and an all-day menu available during the day, but as I made a lunchtime booking online (selecting lunch as the dining option), we were only offered the brunch menu. With hindsight, I realised we should have asked for the alternative menu. Still, there were plenty of tasty options.

To start, I had the Chorizo Scotch Egg: a warm and meaty egg with a yolk on the right side of runny, served with smoky chipotle mayonnaise and a heap of leaves. Erm, sorry, bistro salad. It was absolutely delicious. I’ve never had a warm scotch egg before, and never again will I want to experience a dry, rubbery version from a supermarket.



My friend’s avocado hummus, served with toasted gluten-free flatbread, dukkah (an Egyptian spice made from nuts, sesame seeds, cumin and coriander) and pomegranate was a very generous portion for a starter, not to mention extremely healthy.




My main course was the D&M Burger, which, as I write this, I now know stands for Drake & Morgan, but at the time I was scratching my head pondering exactly where the name from. It was a beef burger with smoked bacon and Applewood cheese served in a deliciously earthy-looking beetroot brioche bun. It was a nice enough burger, not the best one I’ve ever had, but the meat itself was huge and very well cooked. The beetroot brioche was interesting, if a little claggy. The chips were nothing special either and certainly needed some seasoning.



I’ll hold my hands up and admit this was entirely my fault. I should have requested the other menu, which has a wider selection of main courses and hot sandwiches on it.

Unusually for me, the king of the cakes, I wasn’t inspired by the selection of desserts. It didn’t take me long to decide that I was going for the chocolate brownie.

As brownies go, this was first class. It was light and fluffy with a crunchy top. Refreshingly, it was milk chocolate-based, rather than dark, which meant it wasn’t overly rich and heavy. It was topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a pot of molten chocolate sauce, which naturally had to be poured over the entire thing for a true chocolate feast.



I hereby conclude that, from now on, every chocolate brownie should be served with a pot of molten chocolate.

Overall, I was really impressed with The Anthologist. It’s a welcome addition to one of my favourite areas of the City Centre. With so many attractions nearby – The Palace Theatre, The Opera House, The Ritz and Manchester Central are all within walking distance – it shouldn’t be long before it’s doing a roaring trade. The soft launch period, during which time they were offering discounts on all food bills, has now come to an end, so I predict that an official launch will follow soon.

Catering for breakfast, lunch, a quick catch up or a delicious three course meal, The Anthologist brings the outdoors indoors with its quirky garden themed decor.

There’s a sun terrace in St Peter’s Square, where there are blankets draped over the chairs, meaning you can continue to sup your cocktails long after the sun goes down without becoming chilly.

They even do afternoon tea. Something tells me I’ll be back here quite soon.

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