Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 18 December 2017

"Nouvelle cuisine, roughly translated, means: I can't believe I paid 96 dollars and I'm still hungry."

 Mike Kalin

And on that note, wishing you a happy, peaceful and overindulgent Christmas. See you in 2018. 

Merry Christmas! 

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 11 December 2017

With Christmas Day just two weeks away, remember this as you're indulging in another mince pie...

"Life is too short for self-hatred and celery sticks."

Marilyn Wann, American author

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 4 December 2017

"Friday is my second favourite F word. My first is definitely food."

Author unknown 

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 27 November 2017

"Baking cookies is comforting, and cookies are the sweetest little bit of comfort food. They are bite-sized and personal."

Sandra Lee, American chef and TV presenter 

The Vine Brasserie

Bury New Road, Whitefield

Lo and behold, there’s another new addition to Whitefield’s already chock-full restaurant scene. Forget the curry mile, Whitefield is now the home of the culinary mile, with a handful of restaurants within throwing distance of each other along Bury New Road. The latest is a suave new French and Mediterranean fine dining restaurant called The Vine Brasserie.

We’ve been eagerly awaiting the launch of The Vine ever since the posters boasted ‘opening this summer’ much earlier in the year. The summer months came and passed and there was no sign of it getting off the ground, so talk of it disappeared and we’d pretty much forgotten about it. Then, a few weeks ago, thanks to a local magazine, we discovered that The Vine was still very much on the horizon. This week, it opened its doors to the first time.

And it was the worth the wait. It’s brand spanking new, with a stunning black and gold interior which brings a touch of continental sophistication to the local area. The staff were extremely friendly and welcoming, although the arrival was a little awkward as there is no reception area or front desk. You walk through the porch and straight into the bar area, only to find yourself stood around looking for a member of staff. Oh, and some of the tables are a little too close together, That, however, is where my criticisms start and end.

Once we’d ordered, we were given a complimentary bread roll – the true mark of a fine restaurant. They were freshly baked, warm and crunchy on top, served with garlic oil for drizzling over them. It was a winning touch and immediately helped to set the standard of excellence.

The menu is full of the best in fine dining, some dishes quirky, others classics. There’s a selection of small plates, which can be enjoyed as starters or as tapas. You need to be careful with this though. Whilst some are the perfect size for a starter, others are larger and would probably need to be shared between two, although there is no indication of this on the menu. My starter was the beetroot risotto. Bright red in colour, it was packed with chunks of earthy beetroot and pumpkin seeds, which added an extra dimension of texture. Topped with creamy goats’ cheese curd and a hint of zesty orange, it was deliciously flavoursome. Top marks for presentation and unbeatable on taste. Priced at £7, it was very reasonable given the generous portion size.

Beetroot Risotto

My dining companions had cod and potato fishcakes, which were beautifully presented on a bed of tartar cream, and I’m informed that they were some of the best fishcakes they’ve had the pleasure of eating.

Cod and Potato Fishcakes

For main course, you are well and truly spoilt for choice. There’s a fine selection of meat and fish dishes, including steaks, beef, chicken, pork chops, monkfish and hake, as well as vegetarian options including squash orzotto, which I rather like the sound of. I had braised beef, served with creamy mash, kale and cep puree. The beef was braised to perfection, flaking onto the plate with just a slight hint of pink remaining. The mash was deliciously creamy and kale is always a winner. As for the cep puree, I had to do a bit of googling to find out exactly what it was. I knew it tasted fantastic, but I had no idea what I was actually eating. To my ignorance, it turns out that a cep is actually a small porcini mushroom, considered by many chefs to be the some of the finest mushrooms you can lay your hands on. 

Braised Beef

The difficulty with a high-end fine-dining menu is trying to determine whether or not you’ll need additional side dishes with your main course, especially when the menu doesn’t explicitly mention potatoes or vegetables. Luckily, my beef included creamy mash and kale, so it was fairly self-explanatory. One of my fellow diners had the pan roast hake, which was described as being served with samphire, capers and pomme puree. There was, however, a delicate bed of mashed potato, so bear in mind that it’s worth asking exactly what your main course is served with. 

Pan Roasted Hake

Whilst the main courses may seem expensive at first glance, having paid £15 for my superbly succulent beef and delicious accompaniments, I’d say it was well worth it. Some are significantly more - a fillet steak in this place will set you back £28, but, when you take into account that the fact that a béarnaise sauce, tomato, mushroom, salad and fries or potatoes are included, it’s not extortionate.   

The dessert menu is limited but interesting. There’s an apple crumble, a mango and passionfruit panna cotta and a Crème Brûlèe. I normally find an apple crumble hard to resist, however, having seen a photo of the chocolate fondue on the restaurant’s Facebook page, I already had my heart set on dessert long before I’d thought about the starter or main course. Perfectly set up to share for two people, there was a colourful array of fruit, a few marshmallows, pretzels and one extra indulgence in the shape of a macron. It was like a piece of art, with blackberries, raspberries, grapes, melon and strawberries all laid out beautifully on the plate, almost too stunning to tuck into. It came with melting dark chocolate, so it wasn’t sickly sweet. With so much fruit on the plate, it wasn’t even worth feeling guilty about.

Chocolate Fondue

The chocolate fondue was £14, which between two people is no more expensive than having your own dessert. It was the perfect way to round off a truly exciting dining experience. 

The Vine Brasserie is brand new. It had a low-key opening on Tuesday 14 November, and the owner was keen to stress to us that he favoured a soft opening as opposed to a grand reveal. He wants the restaurant to gain its reputation through word of mouth. Well, if they continue to maintain the impeccably high standards that we were lucky enough to experience on Friday night, it’s a sure-fire way of heading for the stars. That said, it was much quieter than I expected it to be, but perhaps that’s a good thing. It gives the place, and the staff, time to find their feet. It will, undoubtedly, provide some fierce competition for its neighbour, One88.

The prices are steep, but you feel like you’re in the centre of Manchester, and the quality is certainly on a par with restaurants in Spinningfields. Book yourself in for a pre-Christmas celebration. If you don’t fancy a slap-up meal, there’s an equally exciting lunch menu, and you can even pop in for coffee and cake – there’s a selection of homemade cakes available daily. 

Exceptional food, friendly staff and a sophisticated yet relaxing atmosphere. The Vine Brasserie is a very welcome addition to Whitefield.

The main menu and lunch menu can be seen on the Facebook page.

For more information, visit the website. 

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 20 November 2017

"Waffles are like pancakes with syrup traps."

Mitch Hedberg, American comedian

 

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 13 November 2017

"Never eat more than you can lift."

 Miss Piggy

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 6 November 2017

"You don't need a silver fork to eat good food."

 Paul Prudhomme, American chef

Quick Cake Stop - Olive and Rye, Leeds

Queens Arcade, Leeds

It’s time for another sugar-fuelled pit stop. This time, I’m branching out. Recently, I took a day trip to Leeds to visit some lifelong school friends, and taking tea was, of course, an obligatory part of the day. My friend took us to Olive and Rye, a quaint little tea shop, cafe and deli inside the very sophisticated Queens Arcade.

It’s a charming little place, with small wooden tables and the most stunning selection of towering cakes on display in the window. It was a crisp, cold and sunny Sunday afternoon and we were fortunate to get seated on the last table available. The four of us had to squeeze into the corner, but it was cosy. We knew we only wanted coffee and cake, so we didn’t bother looking at the main menu, although it would have been nice to have been offered one. The service was a little bit slow, they seemed understaffed and unable to cope with a full house. 

I had the White Chocolate and Raspberry Cake – four layers of moist sponge containing juicy pieces of raspberry, layered up with white chocolate flavoured frosting. There wasn’t an excessive amount of frosting, so it wasn’t overly sickly. The slices were huge and very reasonably priced, at just £3.50.

Raspberry and White Chocolate Cake

For research purposes (cough), I also sampled my friends’ choices. The red velvet was exactly as you’d expect it to be. I love red velvet, although I find the sponge can be dry and it has a tendency to harbour a powdery texture. 

Meanwhile, the Oreo cake was superb but you’d need an extra sweet tooth to get through it. I am a cake fiend and there is nothing too sweet for my palate, but a couple of my friends are more savoury people, so a gargantuan slab of gateaux is more of a marathon for them. Still, if it means I can inhale the leftovers, you won’t find me complaining.

When I got home, I had a peep at the main menu and it sounds delicious. Serving brunch, lunch and small plates, it’s all locally sourced produce put together by owner and chef Joe Hepworth. There are pancakes, waffles, smoked salmon and full breakfasts, healthy sandwiches on homemade breads and ‘small plates’, including combinations such as hazelnut hummus, roasted heritage carrots, herbs and curry. It’s got to be worth a try. 

If you’re ever in Leeds, go in and indulge. In the meantime, have a browse: 

http://www.oliverye.co.uk/

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 30 October 2017

"One can hardly do anything productive when one knows there is cake in the fridge."

 Joyce Rachelle, author

Revolucion de Cuba

Deansgate, Manchester

Revolucion de Cuba is one of the most bustling spots for nightlife on Deansgate. By day, it’s all about Cuban cuisine. By night, it’s a bustling cocktail house and cantina, the go-to place for live music and late-night partying. Revolucion brings the fiery Spanish fiesta to the rain-sodden streets of Manchester. Set across two floors it boasts live entertainment until the early hours of the morning. There’s also the Havana Club Bar, which serves some of the world’s finest rums.

The art deco walls, floors and tables create a wonderfully authentic interior. It was fairly quiet when we arrived, around one o’clock, but it quickly began to fill up, presumably with folks wanting a power lunch to get them through what was set to be a dreary afternoon. Revolucion’s menu does, after all, promise ‘free sunshine vibes with every meal’. What more could you ask for on a Monday?

For me, however, it’s all about the food. If you’re after a quick lunch, there’s the Fast and Fresh menu, offering you a choice of four lunchtime bites for £6. There’s a sandwich, a wrap, a burger and a burrito, all the usual Mexican/Cuban infused favourites. That’s served until 3.00pm, after which it’s replaced by a two-course set menu, priced at £10.95 – both sensationally good value.

On the main menu, there’s a fine selection of tapas dishes, as well as main courses, so whether you like sharing or not, there’s plenty to choose from. You can choose three tapas dishes for £14 – three is the recommended number per person if you opt for tapas your main course. We ordered three each and shared the six between us.

Our tapas selection

There are all the classics alongside some more curious choices. Patatas Bravas and Chorizo are absolute necessities on any tapas table. The Patatas Bravas was delicious and it was an extremely generous portion, although they were ever so slightly too spicy for my delicate palate. Don’t let that put you off, though, as my tongue is laughably feeble. A little bit more garlic aioli on the top would have gone a long way to diffuse the spice, whilst complimenting the flavour. The chorizo was chunky and smoky, one of the best I’ve ever tasted, and the red wine and honey sauce was sticky and rich, so good I polished it off on its own after we’d eaten all the meat. The third obligatory classic was Arroz con Padron – the good old-fashioned paella; aromatic rice, mixed with Padron peppers, Spinach and crunchy hazelnuts, it’s the perfect accompaniment to the other dishes. I’ve never had nuts in paella before, but the crunch added an extra dimension of texture.

Now, next up, wait for this: cheeseburger tacos. Oh yes. Something I’ve never seen on a tapas menu before, but they leapt straight off the page and I knew I had to sample them. Served on tortilla wraps, they were more like an open fajita topped with succulent, homemade burger meat and melted Manchego cheese. Alongside the spicy potato and chorizo dishes, they were mild but very tasty. I would have loved to have eaten a supersize one of these as a main course.

Our final two choices were Cajun creamed mushrooms and Mojito prawns. The mushrooms were exactly as the title suggested – slices of mushrooms sautéed in a creamy Cajun sauce. I adore mushrooms in all forms, and these were something else. There was plenty of excess sauce, which we were warned about when we ordered – our waitress enquired if we’d like to order any bread to mop it up, although, obviously, not in so many words. Whilst I appreciate that this would have been a good idea, it served just as well to be poured over the paella on my plate. I’m full of these little tricks.

Finally, the Mojito prawns were juicy king prawns fried in Mojito flavoured batter. The Mojito is a vintage Cuban cocktail made from white rum, sugar, soda, lime juice and mint. The citrus flavour of the lime certainly came through and complimented the juicy prawns beautifully. It was another generous portion, with five reasonably sized king prawns between the two of us. Lovely. 

Cajun Creamed Mushrooms and Patatas Bravas

Cheeseburger Tacos and Chorizo

Arroz con Padron and Mojito Prawns

I never fill up on tapas to the same extent that I do on a main course. It’s the tried and tested buffet scenario, where you find yourself seemingly able to continue nibbling for hours and hours, wondering where on earth all of these empty calories are disappearing to. I could have managed dessert, but I resisted. First of all because my dining companion wasn’t interested - eating dessert alone never stops being awkward - and, second, because we’ve been working our way through a gargantuan birthday cake for the last seven days. It was a shame really, because there are two or three that I had my eye on – passion fruit cheesecake, the chocolate brownie and the churros. Skimming the menu once again as I write this, I notice that customers are advised to ‘save room for our famous churros’. How did I miss that? What a wasted opportunity. Still, there’s always next time.  

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 23 October 2017

"In heaven, after antipasti, the first course will be pasta."

Steve Albini, American singer-songwriter 

Rosso Restaurant

Spring Gardens, Manchester

Rosso is one of Manchester city centre’s leading eating establishments. The glitzy Italian restaurant is owned by former Manchester United footballer Rio Ferdinand and, since opening back in 2009, has become a favourite celeb haunt, with hordes of famous names regularly using the venue to host parties. The A-List guest list has included the likes of One Direction, Little Mix and many of Ferdinand’s former team mates.

I waited for a long time to try this distinguished Italian for myself. When I finally made it, last Christmas, it was absolutely worth the wait. Following the festive season, Rosso closed for refurbishment, in which the decor and colour scheme were completely overhauled. The original red and black colour scheme was stunning. The Grade II listed building is a former bank, so the ornate interior is already breathtaking, and was made even more awe-inspiring by the red and black design. ‘Rosso’, after all, means ‘red’ in Italian, and, of course, red and black are the United colours.

Following the revamp, the sophisticated red and black have been replaced by an entirely white backdrop. The design remains identical, it’s simply all had a splash of rather sophisticated paint. If I’m honest, I don’t like it nearly as much. It seems to have lost some of its character and charm. 

Predictably, on a Saturday night, it was packed to the rafters, with every table occupied and the bar area bustling. Our table was booked for seven o’clock. As it was early enough, we only had to wait a matter of seconds, but by the time we left, over two hours later, they were 16-deep at the bar and the wait times were significantly longer.

Red or white, the food is still just as outstanding. It was the first time I had dined a la carte, as last year we had the Christmas Lunch menu – which was sensational, but more on that later. It’s an abundant menu, with everything you’d expect to find in a top-notch Italian, but you’re not overwhelmed by too much choice. 

For starters, I had Gamberoni Alla Rosso: plump king prawns poached in lime and chilli butter, served with garlic and dill crostone. King prawns is one of my favourite starter choices, and these were the juiciest, most succulent king prawns I’ve ever tasted. £15 may seem expensive for a starter, but for five of these humongous prawns, it was worth every penny. The crostone (Italian toasted bread) was a wonderful accompaniment, making it more substantial, although a second piece wouldn’t have gone amiss.

Gamberoni Alla Rosso

Choosing my main course was stressful. I was unsure whether it should be pasta or a meat/fish dish. Pasta is my automatic go-to meal of choice in an Italian restaurant; I generally don’t consider anything else. I had Tagliatelle Con Gamberi E Pollo: ribbons of creamy tagliatelle with chunky garlic chicken, prawns and wafer-thin courgettes. It was my perfect kind of pasta: rich, creamy and flavoursome. It may have been a case of prawn overload, but I have no regrets, it was delicious. It was a very small portion, however. Priced at £18, it may have contained a generous handful of perfectly cooked prawns, but the portion size definitely needs increasing ever so slightly. In contrast, the Linguine Al Frutti Di Mare, with garlic, cherry tomatoes and assorted shellfish, was just £2 more expensive for a portion that was more than double in size.

Tagliatelle Con Gamberi E Pollo

Dessert was a Gianduja cheesecake. Gianduja is an Italian chocolate and hazelnut spread. The chocolate cheesecake was coated in a layer of solid chocolate, and was served with a homemade chocolate truffle for that extra little indulgence. Inside the chocolate shell, the cheesecake was the perfect texture. The dark chocolate covering complemented the rich, sweet centre, and the biscuit base was crisp and firm. 

Gianduja Cheesecake

If you’re celebrating a birthday, it’s worth letting them know, as the lucky individual receives a complementary dessert of profiteroles topped with toffee mascarpone and hot chocolate fudge sauce.

There’s no denying that Rosso is truly outstanding. It’s easy to see why it’s one of Manchester’s most popular restaurants. It may be expensive, but it’s a unique dining experience that you won’t forget in a hurry. Alongside the bill, we were given a sneak peak at this year’s Christmas Lunch menu. Having dined a la carte, you realise the incredible value of the festive special, at just £25 for three sumptuous courses. I’m already looking forward to returning to Rosso to kick off the festive season in style.

Rosso offers superb food, stunning surroundings and excellent service, making a special occasion extra special. 

Website: http://rossorestaurants.com/

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 16 October 2017

"Breakfast is everything. The beginning, the first thing. It is the mouthful that is the commitment to a new day, a continuing life."

A A Gill, British food and travel writer

Bill's Restaurant

Trafford Centre

It may seem a little early to be thinking about Christmas. In previous years, that has been exactly my thinking right the way through until mid-November. Then, suddenly, you realise you have only a handful of weekends before the big day and consequently have palpitations when you discover you are yet to even write a shopping list, let alone start ticking items off it.

This year, I was determined things would be different. So I took an early morning trip to the Trafford Centre, stopping at Bill’s Restaurant for a late breakfast. ‘Brunch’ is such a fashionable meal these days, but I have to confess I’m not really a fan. I mean, why would you choose to combine two meals? I need my fuel thrice daily, thank you very much. 

Bill’s is a modern and stylish cafe-come-bistro which began life as a farm shop in East Sussex. A family business, selling primarily green groceries, the business grew and expanded until the shop was forced to close after flooding at the start of the new millennium. It reopened with an accompanying cafe, with a simple aim: to serve really good food and make sure every customer has a good time. Who can grumble at that?

The interior nods to its roots, keeping its farm shop feel and mixing it with industrial decor, with the plumbing and bare bricks on show. Despite the quaint cafe feel, the food is more like bistro standard, but is still reasonably priced. 

There’s plenty of choice on the breakfast menu, which is served until midday Monday to Friday and one o’clock at the weekend. There’s everything from Bill’s Breakfast, your regular Full English with a few sophisticated twists – the pesto roasted plum tomatoes sound very appealing indeed – to coconut porridge and buttermilk pancakes, so you can enjoy whatever you like to wake up to.  

I had Bill’s Omelette, which was served folded, like a calzone, and stuffed with kale, edamame beans, lemon feta, spring onions, smoky tomatoes and olives, accompanied by a Pico de Gallo salsa. If you’re a fan of the trendy ‘superfoods’, then this is the perfect breakfast for you. Cooked with just spring onions inside it, the rest of the toppings were tucked away inside the folded omelette. The textures and flavours complemented each other beautifully. I wouldn’t ever think to add lemon to feta cheese, but it was beautifully zingy and worked really well. The beans were hearty, the tomatoes were tasty and the olives were pungent. I prefer my kale slightly crispier, but that’s the only way it could have been improved.

Bill's Omelette

Priced at £7.95 (you can add smoked streaky bacon for an additional £1.55), it’s very reasonable for a healthy yet hearty breakfast. The coffees, however, are a little steep. I also don’t appreciate the fact that a 10% service charge is added to every bill, regardless of party size. Yes, it’s discretionary, but it’s the customer’s prerogative to decide if, and how much, they’d like to tip.

Casting my eyes over the specials board dotted around the place, Bill’s offer some truly scrumptious sounding desserts, so that alone would make it worth a trip later in the day. They have an equally varied daytime and evening menu, which both change seasonally, as well as a set menu available during the day.  The Christmas menus also sound very tempting indeed. 

Bill’s Restaurant is perfect for casual, daytime dining. Given the competitive marketplace, it’s reasonably priced and if the breakfast menu is anything to go by, it’s superb quality.

All menus are available online at: https://bills-website.co.uk

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 9 October 2017

This week's quote marks National Chocolate Week...

"There is nothing better than a friend, unless it is a friend with chocolate."

Linda Grayson, author

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 2 October 2017

"I love sleep because it's like a time machine to breakfast." 

Anon

Crowded House

Manchester Road, Bury

I’ve previously spoken very favourably of Crowded House, the quirky and contemporary bistro on Manchester Road in Bury. Bringing together a blend of flavours and cuisines from across the world, it’s healthy and hearty food, friendly staff and casual ambience are a winning combination.

Previously, I’ve been in at lunchtime and enjoyed a sandwich from the lunch menu and a grazing platter, but this was my first time dining there in the evening. There’s plenty of choice on the main menu: meat, fish and vegetarian dishes, and whilst there are no starters specifically, there are plenty of versatile side dishes which could be used to whet your appetite. 

That’s exactly what we did, ordering the pesto hummus and pita bread to get us going. You can’t beat a homemade hummus, creamy and flavoursome with a chunky texture. Topped with a dollop of gloriously green herby pesto, the hummus was delicious, perfectly partnered with warm pita bread. Served with a leafy salad, it was a very generous portion for £4.00 and plentiful for an appetiser.

Pesto Hummus and Pita Bread

For main course, I had Moroccan style shredded lamb, served with pomegranate, mint and lemon couscous, raita and pita bread. The lamb was thinly shredded, succulent and juicy, melting away in my mouth. The pomegranate, mint and lemon couscous was fragrant and refreshing, complimenting the meat very well. Raita, as it turns out, is a traditional Indian condiment made with yoghurt and chopped, raw vegetables, most commonly cucumber and mint. It had a subtle zing, so it was light and refreshing, and brought an extra dimension of flavour to the meat and couscous. Piled up on top of the pita bread, it made for a tasty and filling dish. I had no qualms about the size of the portion – it was huge. 

Sticking with the concept of grazing, all the individual components of the main courses are served in separate dishes. This gives you the choice as to whether you sample the flavours individually or combine them. The meat, couscous, riata and the fresh, colourful side salad, drizzled in balsamic vinegar, made for four very different elements which combined superbly to produce a feast in every mouthful.

Moroccan Style Shredded Lamb with Pomegranate, Mint and Lemon Couscous, Raita and Pitta Bread

My dining companion chose the tempura battered fish goujons, with tartare sauce. Forget goujons, they were almost large enough to be classified as whole pieces of fish. Rather than the over-fried, golden brown crunchy batter, it was a light dusting, pale in colour and had a splendid crisp to it. Triple cooked fat chips were the obligatory side order - here, we’re talking 10 cm long, 3 cm deep, perfectly cooked, lightly salted chip royalty. 

Tempura Battered Fish Goujons

Dessert was the special of the day – bakewell tart. It’s one of my all-time favourites, but I’m quite picky. I recently indulged, elsewhere, in what I thought was possibly the greatest bakewell tart ever to cross my lips. Crowded House’s version blew it out of the water. A deliciously moist and juicy frangipane encased in a crisp short crust pastry, layered with jam and topped with almonds, it was perfection. It was supposed to be served with cream, but I made the special request for custard, instead, which they were more than happy to accommodate.

Bakewell Tart

This was the third time I’ve eaten at Crowded House, and I’ve enjoyed more with each return visit. The fresh, healthy food brings together flavours and textures from across the world to create a unique dining experience. If you love to graze, this is the place for you, as all the dishes are suitable for sharing around.

I must give a special shout out to Danny, who was our waiter on Friday evening; a warm, pleasant and friendly chap for whom nothing was too much trouble.

A brand new menu launches on Monday (it’s available to view online now), so it won’t be long before I return to sample the goods.

Whether you’re after a light lunch or a family feast, give Crowded House a go. 

http://www.crowdedhousebury.co.uk/

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 25 September 2017

"Food is our common ground, a universal experience."

James Beard, American cook 

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 18 September 2017

"A man seldom thinks with more earnestness of anything than he does of his dinner."

Samuel Johnson, English writer and poet

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 11 September 2017

"Food is the most primitive form of comfort." 

Shelia Graham, Hollywood gossip columnist

Artisan

The Avenue / North, Bridge Street, Spinningfields, Manchester

Artisan Kitchen & Bar is a rustic bistro in Spinningfields, one of the most popular places for eating and drinking in Manchester City Centre. Spinningfields is the beating heart of Manchester’s restaurant scene, and is also home to such swanky establishments as Australasia, Neighbourhood, The Alchemist and The Oast House.

Located on the first floor on The Avenue / North building, it’s a huge industrialised warehouse space which promotes ‘casual fine dining’ – basic food, prepared well. You enter through a small bar area on the ground floor, officially called The Drawing Room, before ascending into the main restaurant directly above. It’s like a TARDIS, much larger than it looks from the outside; it’s a vast space, with seating stretching for miles. There’s a large bar area, where you can enjoy drinks and cocktails before your meal, and a semi-open kitchen, where you can see the food being prepared. It’s industrial yet chic. 

There were plenty of tables occupied, although it wasn’t as busy as I would have expected for the Summer Bank Holiday. In such a enormous space, it doesn’t matter how busy it gets, during the day, it’s still relaxing and tranquil. It’s primarily a grill, with the menu boasting all the usual meat and fish dishes of an English restaurant in addition to a large selection of stone-baked sourdough pizzas.

We chose to partake in their Express Lunch menu, where you can enjoy two courses and a drink for £9.95, ridiculously good value for a premier restaurant in one of Manchester’s finest dining hot spots! Alcoholic drinks, including house wine and bottled beers, are even included in the offer. There’s plenty choice for the food, too, without it being overwhelming – five starters, five main courses. Lovely. 

To start, I had Patatas Bravas, the Spanish tapas classic of crispy, fried potatoes in a tasty tomato sauce. The sizeable cubes of potato were deliciously crunchy on the outside, but soft and fluffy within, almost like a lighter version of the good old-fashioned roastie. Served with a delicious garlic aioli, a Mediterranean condiment made with garlic and olive oil, with a beautiful smoky flavour, it was a tasty and hearty dish.

Patatas Bravas with tomato sauce and smoked garlic aioli

For main course, there was a choice of chicken, fish, steak, gnocchi and a vegetarian potato hash; something to suit all tastes, and all sounding delightfully delectable. I had herb roasted chicken, and, oh boy, it surpassed all expectations. I was expecting a chicken breast, but what I got was half of a whole roasted chicken. The meat was so succulent and tender; it fell off the bone and melted in my mouth. The tasty, herb-infused skin was gorgeous and perfectly cooked. It was served with a heap of spiced cous cous, which, thankfully, wasn’t too spicy, and contained small pieces of pomegranate, the texture of which complemented the cous cous. Natural yoghurt added a little bit of necessary moisture to an otherwise rather dry cous cous. Although the chicken wasn’t dry in the slightest, the flavours of the meat and the natural yoghurt harmonised very well.

Herb roasted chicken with spiced cous cous, pomegranate and yoghurt

Quite how they can prepare and serve half a chicken as part of a £9.95 two course menu is beyond me. It’s sensational value and almost too good to be true. 

When our waitress asked us if we’d like to see a dessert menu, my eyes must have illuminated, as my response prompted her to chuckle, ‘I’ve never seen anybody respond so enthusiastically before, that’s brilliant’. I thank you.

I was feeling completely satisfied after a hearty and moderately healthy lunch. I could have passed on dessert, but as she informed us that the sticky toffee pudding was off the charts, for research purposes, I had to give it a go. Thankfully, she was absolutely right, it was superb. The sponge was perfectly moist, with one or two dates, and the sauce was sticky without being overly sweet. Topped with a scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream, it was pudding perfection.

I was quick to inform her that she had been proven correct, and I think she was a little relieved, as she jokingly thanked me for having faith in her. Despite only having met little over an hour ago, she appeared to sense exactly how important my desserts were to me. Priced at £6.00, you can hardly grumble when the rest of the meal had cost under a tenner.

Sticky Toffee Pudding

The Express Lunch is designed to be eaten in your lunch hour, and it does what it says on the tin. The service was speedy, and if you’re in a rush, you can even order a dessert or hot drink to take away with you, or have your starter as a side dish. It’s without doubt one of the best value set price lunch menus in town.  The main menu is just as reasonable, and I’d like to experience the place by night.

Artisan is a rustic, retro and informal restaurant, which serves up simple food with a few quirks. It doesn’t break the bank and has already become one of my favourites. You’d be a fool not to give the Express Lunch a whirl. It’s also perfect for big parties, with private rooms available to hire.

Top tip - Sign up to the Artisan club online and you can reap a whole host of benefits, including 20% off the main menu: http://artisan.uk.com/.

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 4 September 2017

"A human being is primarily a bag for putting food into." 

George Orwell, English novelist

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 28 August 2017

"People want honest, flavourful food, not some show-off meal that takes days to prepare."

Ted Allen, American author and television personality

Quick Cake Stop - The Vintage Cupcake Kitchen

High Street, Uppermill, Oldham 

This week, during a day out in Uppermill, I stumbled across a gorgeous little cake emporium, The Vintage Cupcake Kitchen. It does what it says on the tin: it’s a vintage tea room which specifically caters for the sweet-toothed amongst us. Cupcakes, cheesecakes, tray bakes, brownies, rocky roads, milkshakes, ‘freakshakes’, cream teas and afternoon teas – this saccharine gem is a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds, with a spectacular display of aesthetically astonishing cake creations.

The interior looks just as beautiful as the cake counter. It’s as traditional as a tea room could possibly be, with Lilliputian tables, wooden stools and benches to perch on, strewn with a mishmash of cushions. On each table, there’s a tiny china cup filled with sugar cubes and a hand-written chalkboard sign with the table number. It’s cosy and quirky. There’s a large veranda out the front, meaning you can indulge in the perfect mix of coffee, cakes and gossip whilst watching the world pass by this idyllic little village in Saddleworth. 

I stared and stared at the mammoth selection of cakes, all of them making my eyes and my mouth water simultaneously. Their gargantuan slices of cheesecake proved too hard to resist. I decided to go for the Milky Bar flavour.

Milky Bar Cheesecake

It was a soft and creamy vanilla cheesecake centre with a hint of white chocolate. The white chocolate topping was reminiscent of a Nestle Milky Bar, every kid’s favourite choccy treat. The cheesecake itself was delicious, but I would have preferred a slightly stronger chocolate flavour. A chunky biscuit base is a very important aspect of a cheesecake – there’s nothing more disappointing than a wafer thin layer of crumbs – so although this box was ticked, it crumbled as soon as my fork went through it. It needed more binding.

Topped off with a squirt of cream, a piece of the good old fashioned Milky Bar and one of those white chocolate disco coins that used to be a mainstay of a pick and mix, overall, it was a delight.

Don’t believe what anybody else tells you – when it comes to cake, size is everything. This was large enough to serve as lunch all on its own, and for an appetite as insatiable as mine that is no mean feat. By the time I’d eaten by last mouthful, I even left feeling slightly queasy, albeit in a satisfying way. There was plenty of tea to wash it down with.

The Vintage Cupcake Kitchen serves up scrumptious cakes in delightfully twee, vintage surroundings. If you’re passing through Uppermill, you can’t miss it – it’s in a prime location in the middle of this charming little village. 

Liking their Facebook page may prove to be a huge mistake, as I’ll drool over pictures of their daily specials every morning, wishing I could go back and indulge all over again.

I’d love to return in the future to try their brownies, and the afternoon tea. 

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Thevintagecupcakekitchen/

Afternoon Tea at The Midland Hotel

Peter Street, Manchester

Last week was National Afternoon Tea Week, and I’ve certainly done my fair share of celebrating. Following my alternative, extra-saccharine afternoon tea at Home Sweet Home, laden with delicious cinnamon churros and a selection of stodgy cakes, this week’s offering was much more traditional.

As a special birthday present for my Grandma, I treated her to afternoon tea at The Midland Hotel, one of Manchester City Centre’s premium hotels. It’s an iconic and historic venue which has played host to stars from across the globe – even Prime Ministers, Presidents and members of the Royal Family have stayed there. There are conference rooms, two fine dining restaurants, a spa and four-star accommodation all under one roof. 

In April, The Midland added a new string to its bow: The Tea Room, a dining room dedicated entirely to its renowned afternoon tea experience. The tone is set from the moment you arrive. Walking through the marbled reception, the elegant interior is beautifully grand, oozing glamour. The Tea Room itself is opulent and tranquil, complete a silver and blue marble-effect carpet and comfy chairs covered in flock fabric.

We were seated at a cosy table for three in the corner of the room, an excellent position for being nosy. Let’s be honest, who doesn’t love a bit of people watching? Each table is accompanied by a silver stand, from the floor to table height, which is a genius idea, as it means that a) the tea stand isn’t going to take up valuable table space and b) you won’t get a crick in your neck from peeping around it to talk to your companions. Crisp white table cloths and China cups and saucers are very much the order of the day. There’s even a chefs counter, where you can see your afternoon tea being prepared. 

The Traditional Afternoon Tea is £25 per person, and you’re presented with three tiers of pure excellence. Start savoury, of course, with five miniature sandwiches. If you’re a fan of the plain sandwich, this isn’t the place for you. To appreciate this experience, your palate needs to be as sophisticated as the surroundings. There was duck egg and mustard cress on white bread, smoked salmon and lemon verbena crème fraîche on dark malt bread, honey-baked gammon with garden pea mousse on granary, goat’s cheese with beetroot chutney on walnut bread and Goosnargh chicken with barbecued sweet corn on a brioche bun. All the sandwiches were very flavoursome, with the variety of breads adding an extra dimension. My favourites were the smoked salmon and lemon - a combination that you wouldn’t expect to work but was very powerful – and the goat’s cheese and beetroot. The unusual mix of sweet and savoury worked very well.

As I peeped around at the busy dining room, I noticed that some parties ate the cakes before the scones, whilst some ate the scones before the cakes. Which is correct? Personally, I thought this was a no-brainer: scones first, my argument being that they bridge the gap between savoury and sweet. Either way, you have to give warning when you’re ready to tuck into them, as you are served a scoop of jam onto your plate. We were given a choice of three: strawberry, raspberry or lemon curd. Intrigued as I was by the lemon curd, I’m not sure it sits correctly on top of a scone, so I played it safe and opted for the strawberry. Heaped on with clotted cream, you really can’t beat it. We had a plain scone and a sultana scone each, and they were decent sizes. We could have opted for the ‘scone of the day’, which was strawberry. Served slightly warm, they were quite possibly the best scones I’ve ever tasted. They pulled apart on the seams effortlessly, without crumbling, and had the perfect crunch on the outside.

The third and final round: the cakes. For me, the most important part of your afternoon tea experience. First of all, there was a passion fruit and white chocolate meringue tart. This played tricks with the mind as it looked like a lemon meringue pie, so I think my taste buds were completely unprepared for the sweet passion fruit flavour, instead expecting a tart citrus taste. It was delicious, with soft, peaked meringue, just the way I like it.

Next up was a dark chocolate delice, a layered dessert with a biscuit base, cranberry filling, chocolate mousse in the centre and chocolate ganache on the top, finished off with feuilletine and flakes of gold leaf. I’d never had a ‘delice’ before, but I loved the cranberry flavour and the light, airy texture. 

Number three was a pistachio and olive oil cake, topped with orange curd. It was a deliciously moist sponge with an intense nutty flavour. I had no idea what to expect, but it turned out to be one of my favourites.

We ended on a dome of Scottish strawberry and champagne moose with a Victoria sponge base. The exterior, made from strawberry coulis, was sweet and fruity, underneath which lay the champagne mousse. The sponge base paid homage to the traditional Victoria sponge cake. For my companions, it was a little too sweet, but that’s a phrase that doesn’t enter my vocabulary. 

As we placed our silver cutlery down on our plates and wiped our sticky fingers on the napkins draped across our laps for the final time, we were feeling pleasantly full, but not stuffed – a sign of an excellent afternoon tea. You shouldn’t be left wanting more, but neither should you feel uncomfortable.

Afternoon tea at The Midland Hotel is one of the finest examples of this great British tradition. It oozes glamour and elegance, putting a contemporary stamp on this conventional pastime. The food is exquisite, the staff are attentive and there’s an unlimited supply of tea – what could be more perfect?

You can add bubbles to your afternoon tea, upgrading to the Royal version for an extra £7. There is also a vegetarian, a vegan, a gluten free and a children’s option, so there’s something to suit all needs. 

At the heart of Manchester City Centre, The Midland Hotel is a must for a unique afternoon tea experience. It can make a special occasion extra special.

View the menus and book online here: 

http://www.afternoontea.co.uk/uk/north-west/manchester/the-midland-hotel/

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 21 August 2017

"The meal is not over when I'm full. The meal is over when I hate myself." 

 Louis C.K. - American comedian, actor and writer

Afternoon Tea at Home Sweet Home

The Great Northern Warehouse, Manchester

I’ve previously spoken about my love of partaking in a spot of afternoon tea. There is nothing more quintessentially British. I’ve tried a fair few different ones, from the plain and simple to the elegant and extravagant. As with anything, some are better than others, but I really appreciate it when a place brings something a little different to the table.

Henceforth, it’s time for me to tell you about my latest spot of afternoon indulgence, courtesy of Home Sweet Home. I’ve previously written about this little gem of Manchester City Centre – you can read my review here.

Originally based in the Northern Quarter, it’s a quirky and quaint American diner which specialises in sensationally stodgy comfort food. Its enormous popularity led to the opening of a second joint inside the Great Northern Warehouse a couple of years back.

Last month, they launched their own take on the afternoon tea. My first glance at the menu almost caused palpitations. It offers something completely different. Rather than the usual triangle sandwiches and scones, there’s a selection of American and Mexican inspired delights, including open bagels, cinnamon churros and a conglomeration of Home Sweet Home specialities. 

There were three mini open bagels. Cheddar cheese and tomato was the simplest of the trio, a classic that you can’t get wrong. The second was a BLT, layered up with a slice of tomato, rocket leaves and crispy, maple-cured bacon. The final bagel was an unusual combo: smoked salmon and smashed avocado. Two delicious ingredients that, on paper, you wouldn’t expect to work together, but they do. The bagels were freshly baked, soft and ever-so-slightly sweet, reminding me more of a brioche roll. Served with a handful of homemade crisps – sorry, ‘potato chips’, as the Americans bizarrely call them – dusted with barbecue and paprika. These salty, crunchy morsels were a welcome little extra, and certainly needed in preparation for the forthcoming sugar overload.

At stage two, on the middle tier, were the churros. These choux pastries, fried until crunchy and sprinkled with sugar, are mainly eaten for breakfast across Spain, Portugal and France, but the cinnamon version originated in the States. Traditionally, they’re eaten dipped in chocolate. It couldn’t be more different from the humble fruit scone with jam and clotted cream. Generally, they’re not something I’d order for dessert, so I haven’t tried many of them. However, these will certainly take some beating. They were incredibly light and fluffy on the inside, cripsy on the outside, and they pulled apart effortlessly, making for easy dipping. They were served with a pot of Nutella and ‘Dreamcheese frosting’, a Home Sweet Home creation. Coupled together, the Nutella and the Dreamcheese frosting together with a shameless bit of double dipping made for a taste sensation. It’s a dessert that needs creating here and now.

Onto the top tier, which was filled with a plethora of Home Sweet Home delights: a lemon meringue pie, three squares of red velvet cheesecake brownie, the cupcake of the month – which also happened to be red velvet – a cup of chocolate espresso moose and three chocolate truffles. The cakes are always the highlight of an afternoon tea, and truly are the jewel in Home Sweet Home’s crown, so I was highly unlikely to be disappointed.

The lemon meringue pie struck the perfect balance between sweet and tarty, oozing with lemon filling and topped off with soft meringue. The cheesecake brownie squares were a delicious mouthful, a red velvet brownie filled with a dollop of creamy vanilla cheesecake. I would have preferred a standard chocolate brownie exterior, however, given that the cupcake of the month was also red vevlet. Delightful though it was, with a vanilla butter cream icing and topped with a glacier cherry. A shot of rich, smooth chocolate espresso moose was another item on the top tier. As a loather of all things coffee, I wasn’t expecting to enjoy this, but it was actually very nice. I think this was down to the fact that it was milk chocolate based, rather than dark. The milk choc helped to soften the bitterness of the coffee. It made the perfect dip for the two fresh strawberries which were thrown in for good measure. Well,  if there’s some fruit in there then it’s healthy, yes? 

We ended on the three half-moon chocolate truffles: one lemon, one chocolate fudge and one red velvet (again!), all coated in white chocolate. I’m not quite sure how to describe the texture of a truffle: think a slightly moist, stodgy sponge. They’d gone slightly gooey by the time we were got to them, having spent too much time under the low-hanging ceiling lights whilst we were gossiping, but they were still yummy, my favourite being the chocolate fudge one. The top tier was, literally, the icing on the cake and reminded us of exactly what Home Sweet Home does best.

This stupendously scrumptious afternoon tea is a novel change from your usual sandwiches and scones. It’s a tooth-achingly sweet treat that may leave you bouncing off the ceiling by the end of it, but it’s worth it. Your first hot drink is included, but you’ll certainly need to purchase extras in order to get through it. The majority of the cakes, with the exception of the red velvet cheesecake brownies, had to be cut up and shared, rather than being served as mini individuals, so it’s very much a couple’s afternoon tea – quite how it would work with an odd number of people, I’m not sure.

It’s only been a month since it launched, but I have no doubt that this afternoon tea will become a popular fixture at Home Sweet Home. It’s only available at the Great Northern site. I imagine this is due to the fact that the Northern Quarter place is walk-in only, whereas booking is essential for afternoon tea. This is a shame, as I think the Northern Quarter restaurant is more suited to an afternoon tea, as it’s quaint and quirky,with a tea shop feel, whereas the Great Northern feels much more like an American diner. 

If you’re a sugar fiend who, like me, loves to try a little bit of everything, then this an experience you cannot afford to miss. If your palate is more savoury, it’s perhaps best to avoid it.

£20 per person. View the menu and book your afternoon tea here: 

http://homesweethomenq.com/