Monday 25 June 2018

The Bird at Birtle

Bury and Rochdale Old Road, Heywood


The Bird at Birtle is what should probably be called a ‘gastropub’. Owned by renowned local chef and restaurateur Andrew Nutter, the former public house is a sister venue to his famous country retreat Nutter’s, a stunning converted manor house in Norden which showcases some of the best fine dining in the North West.

The Bird at Birtle is a smaller, more relaxed venue located on the outskirts of the Lancashire countryside. It may be more casual, but the quality of the food is just as stunning and the surroundings are just as sophisticated as the award-winning original. The tables are opulently laid and the staff are very friendly and attentive; you’d be hard-pressed to find fault.

The menu changes regularly to reflect in-season local produce. There’s a wide selection of starters, main courses and desserts. Starters on the current menu include tomato soup with truffle oil, chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche and red onion jam and tempura Bury black pudding, all sounding as delicious one another. It was a toss-up between creamy garlic mushrooms, an ultimate favourite of mine, and the hoisin duck wraps.

I worried the garlic mushrooms would be too safe. After all, they do grace many menus and I felt I should be ordering something a little different. Luckily, the risk paid off as they were absolutely delicious. They were incredibly garlicky and coated in creamy cheese, sat on top of toasted sourdough and topped with shredded lettuce for an added crunch, it was a lip-smackingly gorgeous way to begin an exceptional meal.


Garlic Mushrooms

The duck wrap looked equally impressive. You had to shred the duck yourself, but this couldn’t have been easier because the meat was so perfectly cooked it fell apart. Served with hoisin sauce, cucumber and leek, you were able to neatly fold it all into mini pancakes. The portions were very generous and the prices were very reasonable.


Duck and Hoisin Wrap

For main course, there’s an array of meat and fish dishes, as well as vegetarian options and pub classics such as steaks and pies. Tempted as I was by the cheese and onion pie, in the end I opted for the sumptuous-sounding roast feather blade of beef. It was served with a caramelised onion and red wine jus, roast fondant potatoes and carrot puree. The succulent beef fell apart and melted in my mouth, with the onion and red wine jus adding depth to the flavour. The roast fondant potatoes were like a perfectly cooked croquet; layers of thinly sliced potatoes roasted to a splendid colour and texture, nice and crispy on the outside. The whole meal was delightfully satisfying. At £18.90, my beef main was very reasonably priced and worth every single penny.


Roast Feather Blade of Beef

As you know by now, for yours truly, dessert is the highlight of any meal and here, the desserts are nothing short of the exceptional quality I had, by the third course, grown to expect. The choice of British classics was endless and included jam roly poly, sticky toffee pudding, chocolate brownie and one of my favourites, the lesser-spotted banoffee pie.

It was a superb banoffee pie, deliciously sickly sweet toffee and cream encased in pastry and finished off with caramelised banana, it was enough to satisfy even the most sweet-toothed of people. I do prefer a nice crunchy biscuit base on a banoffee pie, but it was excellent all the same.


Banoffee Pie

The Bird at Birtle is a truly exceptional dining experience. It’s fine dining without the pretentiousness. Instead, it’s relaxed and friendly and extremely reasonably priced, but still with the finest quality of food. A faultless restaurant which proved so good I’m not sure I’ll be able to reserve it for special occasions. I can’t wait to go back.
A sample menu can be viewed online: http://www.thebirdatbirtle.co.uk/

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 25 June 2018

"Soup is just a way of screwing you out of a meal."
Jay Leno
American TV presenter


Monday 18 June 2018

Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 18 June 2018

"Raisin cookies that look like chocolate chip cookies are the reason I have trust issues." 
Aaron Karo
American comedian and writer





Thursday 14 June 2018

Fress

62 Oldham Street, Manchester


Manchester’s Northern Quarter is full of weird and wonderful surprises, none more surprising than this Parisian-style cafe on Oldham Street. It has a stylish black and white colour scheme, with its ornate canapy, checkerboard floor, wooden tables and chairs and shimmering wall tiles. The Victorian bistro chairs add to the retro vibe.

Fress is one of those restaurants that have totally mastered the art of Instagram. My feed regularly features photos of their delectable brunches and decedent-looking cakes and desserts and, having salivated over them for so long, I thought it was high time I gave it a go.

As in life, the photo, sadly, doesn’t always match the reality. Whilst our Fress experience was pleasant and enjoyable, it was really nothing to write home about.

They claim to be the only place in the Northern Quarter to make everything fresh in-house, from scratch, using locally sourced ingredients. I guess Joe Public will never know whether or not this is true, but the quality of their food led to them being awarded the ‘Best Brunch in Manchester’ accolade last year.

On this award-winning brunch menu are the Full English, both meat and veggie options, Eggs Benedict with a variety of extras, the very trendy Smashed Avocado and a selection of sandwiches. On a scorching Spring Bank Holiday, a light lunch was certainly what was needed. I opted for the Eggs Benedict with grilled mushrooms and halloumi.

Eggs Benedict with Grilled Mushrooms and Halloumi

The sourdough toast on which the Eggs Benedict was sat was slightly over-toasted, to the point of being chewy and difficult to cut through. The poached eggs, however, were perfectly cooked, the runny yolk making up for the tough bread. The hollandaise sauce was just right, too. I absolutely love mushrooms and believe they can add several layers of depth and flavour to practically any dish, but these were disappointing. They were lukewarm and slightly shrivelled, tasting like they had been reheated rather than cooked fresh.

It wasn’t a massive portion, but was satisfying enough for a light lunch, albeit overpriced at £8.00. The brunch menu is available until 3.00pm. The Lunch and Dinner menu features light bites such as calamari, grilled halloumi and tiger prawns, as well as main courses including burgers, seabass and vegetable flatbread.

Given that the cakes have always stolen the show on Instagram, I thought I’d be determined not to leave until I’d tried one. Only the previous day, there was a sensational-looking Galaxy Ripple Cheesecake advertised online. However, on Monday, the selection of cakes looked rather less impressive. This coupled with the fact that we weren’t bowled over with the brunch meant that we didn’t bother hanging around, instead taking a couple of cakes home with us.

We collected a Snickers cronut (that’s a cross between a croissant and a doughnut) and a cookie dough brownie. These were, without doubt, the highlight of our visit.

I was unsure how I felt about a cronut. It’s essentially a doughnut made from croissant pastry – sweet, sticky and deliciously moreish. There was a ring of chocolate running through the middle and the top was covered in chocolate and spotted with hefty chunks of Snickers. I thought £5 was a little steep, but it truly was a masterpiece.

Snickers Cronut

The cookie dough brownie was just as delicious. The heat may have made it go a little bit sloppy on the way home, but the goey-ness certainly didn’t spoil it.

The sweet stuff is definitely the best part of Fress and is probably the only thing that would tempt be back. Even then, I’d probably just opt for a takeaway, as the food seemed over-priced and not really worth it.

Monday 11 June 2018

The Alchemist

The Quays, MediaCityUK


The definition of an alchemist is ‘a person who transforms or creates something through a seemingly magical process’. Never has there been a more appropriate name for a restaurant and bar chain. The Alchemist is ‘a celebration of the unconventional, dark and controversial’.

There’s a Portuguese novel with the same name. It tells the story of a young shepherd boy who journeys to the Egyptian pyramids in order to discover a treasure which he’s had visions of in a recurring dream. Yes, it’s all very mystical. 

The restaurant and bar chain taps into this mystique with its theatrical cocktails and luxury interior. It was born in Spinningfields in Manchester City Centre back in December 2010. This ground-breaking, innovative new cocktail bar soon became the talk of the town and now, eight years later, there are 14 bars nationwide, including a second city centre sibling and another at MediaCity.

After a morning on the new Coronation Street tour during its inaugural weekend, we headed to this MediaCity venue for our lunch. This Salford Quays site is both a restaurant and a cocktail bar. Its bronzed interior complete with plush leather seats and black and gold glasses exude sophistication and grandeur.

As a non-drinker, the cocktail menu isn’t something I would normally be interested in. But given that The Alchemist are renowned for their experimental and elaborate alcoholic creations, I had to have a scan.

Alongside your standard Pornstar Martini and Daiquiri are some rather more intriguing names such as the ‘Bubblebath’, the ‘Lightbulb Moment’, the ‘Chase The Rainbow’ and the ‘Flavour Changing One’. They’re all given abbreviated symbols in the style of the elements in the Periodic Table - quirky and fun. They’re all categorised and there’s a whole section entitled ‘Theatre Served’, so you can prepare for a show when they’re delivered to your table. There’s even a selection of ‘Apprentice Cocktails’, all of which are alcohol-free; I always appreciate a bar which makes an effort with non-alcoholic cocktails, or ‘mocktails’ as their affectionately known as. The drinks are expensive, with the majority of the cocktails setting you back between £8 and £13.

My dining companion ordered the ‘Bubblebath’. Symbol: Bb; Price £8; Ingredients: tanqueray gin, Aperol, Chambord lemon, apple and fairy liquid. Along came the waiter with a miniature conical flask filled with orange liquid which, when poured into the cocktail glass, rose, foamed and steamed to the amazement of ourselves and all the people around us. With such genius creativity and originality, it’s easy to see why this cocktail house quickly became so popular.

Bubblebath Cocktail
The food is just as appealing. It’s a very reasonably priced menu with a selection of sandwiches, burgers, wraps, fajitas, main courses and light bites to choose from. It can often be the case that food served in a bar is bog standard, nothing better than okay, but that’s not the case at The Alchemist.

To start, I had Halloumi fingers: deep fried nuggets of halloumi served with a sweet mustard mayonnaise. It wasn’t the best halloumi starter I’ve ever had. The cheese was partially melted inside the fingers, so it had lost its distinctive and appealing squeaky texture. They bore similarity to mozzarella dippers, which are not quite the same. The sweet mustard mayonnaise was, however, delicious. 

Halloumi Fingers with Sweet Mustard Mayonnaise
For main course, I had the New Yorker Sandwich: thick slices of salt beef with cheese, sauerkraut, gherkins and mustard. It was a deliciously tasty doorstop of a sandwich served on toasted seeded bread. Sauerkraut is finely sliced, fermented cabbage which has a sour flavour and beautifully complimented the salt beef and pickled gherkins. It was served with skin-on fries, but I upgraded to the sweet potato alternative for an extra £1 – they were nice, but lacked crunch and seasoning. 

New Yorker Sandwich
Pushing myself ever closer to a food coma by ordering a dessert that was totally unnecessary, I tried the sticky toffee pudding. One of my favourite puds, I’ve sampled it in enough different places to know exactly how I like it. The Alchemist’s take on this ultimate British classic was exactly as it should be: moist, fluffy and drowned in toffee sauce, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream melting over the top of it. Delicious.

Sticky Toffee Pudding

The halloumi fingers were £5.50, my main course was £11.50, including the sweet potato upgrade, and my sticky toffee pudding £6.00, making it a perfectly reasonable £23 for three courses. I certainly can’t complain about the quality or the quantity of the food and whilst the drinks may be expensive, as in life, you get what you pay for, and with each cocktail comes a very different and unique experience. The service was excellent, with minimal wait between courses and the staff were all friendly and welcoming.

The complimentary bottle of water on each table was a nice touch. Whether I’m with friends who are drinking or not, we always end up asking for some water to accompany our beverages – after all, eating and talking is very thirsty work – so it was nice to be presented with some without having to ask.

Dining and drinking at The Alchemist is a theatrical experience which needs to be tried.

Menus vary across the country and can be viewed online: https://thealchemist.uk.com/.





Quote of the Week - Week commencing Monday 11 June 2018

"My therapist told me the way to achieve true inner peace is to finish what I start. So far today, I have finished two bags of M&M's and a chocolate cake. I feel better already."
Dave Barry
American author and columnist